Cultural Appropriation Disputes in Fashion

June 25, 2024

The topic of cultural inclusivity has always been complex and often contentious, one with a multitude of opinions surrounding it. It has gained increasing prominence in recent discussions due to the growing acknowledgment of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) principles. This shift has sparked more conversations about embracing cultural inclusivity and challenging our conventional ways of thinking. 

Cultural inclusivity can incorporate the unique aspects of different cultures into artistic spaces thoughtfully and respectfully without crossing into cultural appropriation, which entails using elements of a culture without proper recognition or understanding of its history.

Drawing inspiration from or directly using cultural attire for fashion pieces has become particularly prominent in the fashion industry. This trend has often led to backlash and protests from the public, who view it as an attempt to normalize cultural appropriation. 

One significant case that escalated to legal disputes involved Urban Outfitters and the Navajo Nation. The controversy arose when Urban Outfitters used the tribe’s name for a collection featuring items such as “Navajo hipster panties,” “Peace Treaty Feather Necklace,” and a “Navajo print flask” without authorization. 

The Navajo Nation filed a lawsuit against the company in 2012, although the name has been used since 2001. Ultimately, both parties settled for an undisclosed amount and entered into a “supply and license agreement” that reflected a shift towards more ethical practices in fashion.

photo: PhillyVoice cover. Image courtesy of Urban Outfitters.

photo: Time cover. Image courtesy of Urban Outfitters.

The "Sexy Little Geisha" lingerie by Victoria's Secret was equally discourteous and culturally ignorant, sparking significant backlash. This piece featured an "Eastern-inspired" floral print fabric with an obi belt, accompanied by a matching fan and chopsticks in its advertising imagery. It was part of the retailer’s Go East collection, a line of Asian-inspired lingerie and accessories that portrayed Asian identity and reduced Eastern Asian culture to a stereotype of exotic sexuality. By perpetuating geisha stereotypes, the product further fetishized Asian women. In response to the intense backlash, Victoria's Secret removed the product from its website.

photo: HuffPost cover. Image courtesy of Victoria’s Secret.

So, when is there a fine line between cultural appreciation and appropriation? This question is complex and context-dependent. However, there must be a way to intertwine culture with fashion and the arts because culture has always inspired ancient and modern creations. True cultural appreciation involves a deep respect and understanding of the source culture, acknowledging its origins and significance. It requires engaging with the culture in a way that honours its traditions and contributions rather than reducing them to superficial trends. 

A better example of when culture is appreciated was represented in the Project Atigi by Canada Goose. In 2019, Canada Goose, a Canadian company known for its winter clothing, initiated Project Atigi. The launch consisted of a collection of parkas designed and produced by the Inuit population, specially created by 14 Inuit seamstresses across nine different communities. According to the company, the profits were donated to these communities through the Inuit Tapiriit Kanatami. Amidst the way modern fashion industries have navigated cultural appropriation and ethical production, Project Atigi stood out as a genuine collaboration that showcased the craftsmanship of Inuit seamstresses and respected and honoured their traditions. 

photo: Glossi Mag cover. Image courtesy of Canada Goose.

Culture and fashion are interconnected, as culture inevitably influences art and vice versa. This connection is natural and beneficial, as culture is an aspect of human life that deserves celebration through various art forms. However, like any powerful influence, culture can be misused. Recognizing and respecting ethical boundaries is crucial to reconciling cultural influence with artistic expression. 

Historically, these boundaries have often been ignored, leading to ethical wrongdoings and transgressions. Fortunately, contemporary shifts in norms and increased awareness are creating a more respectful and informed approach to cultural representation in art and fashion. This evolving understanding is helping to create a fairer and more respectful environment where culture can be honoured appropriately.